19/05/2026
Today was a serious trekking day. I calculated every step and even my phone charging in advance, yet somehow a few extra kilometers still slipped in.
In the morning I didn’t want to miss the only breakfast included with the accommodation, so I set off at 8 a.m. and reached Žrnovo relatively quickly. I collected the stamp in time - getting that first stamp of the day always comes with such a calm feeling of satisfaction, although by now I know surprises can still come afterward.
Between Žrnovo and Pupnat there’s about an 11 km reasonably walkable road through the forest with smaller turnoffs along the way. It was beautiful, but also fairly monotonous, and I missed the sound of the sea. Luckily, someone had hidden little surprises along the roadside, colorful painted stones. So I entertained myself by counting the kilometers from stone to stone.
In Pupnat there are two stamps, but I couldn’t find one of the churches, and I was already getting frustrated by the distance still ahead of me, so I ended up leaving with only one stamp from there. Still, I noticed that next to the church there was a lovely little Michelin-recommended restaurant - that information might come up useful later.
From there the route continued toward Pupnatska Luka, and the small pebble beach in the bay is simply unmissable. There are parking spots along the road, and I can imagine how crowded this place must get during high season. Right now there was still plenty of space.
After that came another long trekking section, but at least the sea was closer, and mentally it also helped that I was already in the second half of the route. My plan was to collect the next stamp, cut across to the accommodation, rest a bit, charge my phone, and only afterward go for the final stamp in Čara .
Well… that didn’t work out, because there’s no shorter walking route toward Zavalatica.
So I kept going toward Čara. I couldn’t find the chapel there either, although after checking later at the apatment, I think I should have needed to make a detour toward Čavića Luka. Oh well, that’s it, never mind.
Meanwhile I kept hoping there would be another Studenac in Čara, like there was in Lumbarda and Žrnovo, because of the heat I drank a lot and I ran out of fluids pretty fast and another coke would have been amazing. Unfortunately there wasn’t one, so I finished the rest of my water instead.
Next to the church, however, there stood an admirable ancient tree with a massive, crunky trunk. Maybe it was a cypress… I honestly don’t know, but it was a very special sight.
From there I thought I’d easily make it into Zavalatica and finally I can call it a day soon. Well… because of the accommodation I definitely ended up trekking another extra 5–8 km, because it wasn’t where I thought it was at all - it was much farther away. The address wasn’t accurate, and only when the host sent the location it became clear where it actually was. Even a kind local resident working on his boat tried to help me figure it out based on the name.
Luckily, after another Studenac break I set off on the final stretch. As I got closer, I started having slightly crime-thriller-like thoughts because the accommodation was so remote and hidden away at the edge of nowhere. But when the lady appeared with her dog, I relaxed, and the place itself turned out to be completely decent and clean. So my fears disappeared.
Tomorrow morning I continue on, and I think I’ll already be at the hotel by early afternoon. It’ll be an easy day - unlike today.
I don’t know the exact distance for today because my watch also died, but it was definitely around 40 km. Oh, and my blister is thankfully doing fine - it barely hurts, so I managed the route without too much trouble.
But tomorrow will only be half as much. :-)