Tales From Darkest Dunedin

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Tales From Darkest Dunedin Cemetery and city tours. Book at www.darkestdunedin.co.nz

Through winter and spring this year Larnach Castle has shown a subtle and changing light show. In midwinter the "golden ...
31/10/2026

Through winter and spring this year Larnach Castle has shown a subtle and changing light show. In midwinter the "golden hour" light and changing cloud has painted dappled light and shadow on the Peninsula and semi translucent layers on the hills above and beyond Port Chalmers.

Today, in the Castle's dining room, I got a quick photo on my phone of one of the windows. The light projected through it came through the red and blue glass of the enclosed veranda.

So, what is NZ’s battle in Bellevue Spur in Passchendaele, Belgium all about and why is it considered NZ’s deadliest bat...
13/10/2026

So, what is NZ’s battle in Bellevue Spur in Passchendaele, Belgium all about and why is it considered NZ’s deadliest battle in military history?

When Germany attacked France in 1914, they were expecting a short war; a short, lively war full of dramatic and glorious cavalry charges and victorious infantry, ready to go home after Paris was taken. That did not occur.

Instead, the technology developed by that stage meant that a defensive war with artillery barrages was always going to prove stronger than an offensive one. The mobile part of the first months of World War One quickly became a static war with men in trenches guarding no-man's land and with the protection of massed artillery in the back lines.

The Germans knew that as long as they kept the French ground that they had taken, they were winning the war. The French knew that to win the war, they had to eject the Germans.

Part of the German advance went through Belgium and the German forces asked the government and the King of the Belgians permission to let them through, promising to pay reparations and pay for any damage caused. The Belgians refused. They didn’t want to be a part of a neighbour waging war on another neighbour but Germany went anyway and that’s what brought Britain into the war, - both Britain and Germany were signatories to an 1839 treaty which recognised the sovereignty of the kingdom of Belgium. When Germany broke that treaty, Britain joined the war.

When Kaiser Wilhelm II (the German emperor from 1888 till his abdication in 1918) learned that Britain had joined the war against him because of the violation of the treaty, he said (in German, of course) “oh, all for a scrap of paper” which showed how much faith he put in the keeping of promises made by previous generations.

The war on the western front in France and Belgium therefore, was basically in deadlock. Trenches and artillery meant that attacks were costly and often futile. Tanks did something to break that deadlock but not much and tanks had to be used in very special conditions but when they were used correctly, they were a game changer.

By 1917, WW1 had become what was referred to as a war of attrition. Each side trying to kill as many of the other side as they could until their armies had wasted away. It was a strategy that didn’t endear itself to the common soldier. Before 1917, the commander of the British forces, Field Marshall Douglas Haig, decided on a grand strategy. He would advance north into Belgium and cut off the German-held ports which were bases for U-boats that, by 1917, were crippling the British economy by sinking the ships it needed to survive.

But there was one thing he had not foreseen and that was the weather.

Why were a thousand New Zealand soldiers lost in two hours, with nothing achieved, on October 12, 1917? A few reasons.

Mud.

The battleground, centuries before, had been swampy. Farmers had built drainage systems over generations but artillery shells destroyed them. From July to October the rain had been particularly heavy. The mud was so deep that tanks could sink in it.

Previous success.

New Zealand's attack on Bellevue Spur on October 12th was part of a much larger battle. On October 4th they had made a 1900 yard advance through German positions.

Field Marshall Haig was keen to keep the Germans retreating and ordered his army to keep pushing. But the vital artillery support required guns to be moved up and solid positions to be prepared. This was impossible to achieve in the time given.

German preparation

The German Army had a saying: "sweat saves blood." Bellevue Spur was part of their "defence in depth" against an expected attack. Concrete pillboxes with machine guns were surrounded with barbed wire. Without artillery bombardment, infantry stood no chance.

Command

The New Zealanders' commanding general, Godley, was a man who obeyed orders. In my opinion he was either of two things: a man who had no idea what he was sending his soldiers into and therefore criminally incompetent or a man who did know what he was sending them to and therefore criminally callous. He knew that his men's efforts were part of a larger plan but that would have been little comfort for the families who lost their men for no return.

Passchendaele. The name meant many things to the New Zealand soldier: sacrifice, suffering, incompetence, futility. Why were kiwi soldiers sent through mud to attack a place they had no hope of taking? The answer lies in the place they were in history: where military technology dictated strategy and men were a commodity to be consumed by the meat grinder of war.

Photo: Canadian war museum

On this day in 1917 the Otago Regiment, as part of a general attack during the Battle of Passchendaele, was sent through...
12/10/2026

On this day in 1917 the Otago Regiment, as part of a general attack during the Battle of Passchendaele, was sent through knee-deep mud to assault German positions without preparatory artillery fire.

German machine gun positions and barbed wire were fully intact and the Otagos lost 300 men that day.

One of them was William Alexander Brown, who is remembered at his family grave in Dunedin's Southern Cemetery.

William found shelter from German bullets in a shell hole but left it to help another soldier, Corporal Hardy, before returning.

Hardy called out again for help and William left his shelter again. He was shot through the back and killed.

Private William Brown has no known grave.

Tomorrow we'll post about Passchendaele and why it's so devastating, as war always is.

Photo from Dunedin City Council

Tonight Gregor presented at Heritage Bytes and one of his topics was the heritage leffel turbine used in approx 1907 for...
09/10/2026

Tonight Gregor presented at Heritage Bytes and one of his topics was the heritage leffel turbine used in approx 1907 for gold mining in Southland.

We visited it a couple of years ago so you don't have to, even though you should!

Gregor Campbell of Tales From Darkest Dunedin takes you through Tua...

4 seats left on the Murder & Woe van tour for the Southern Heritage Festival. 10th Oct 5.30pmGet picked up at the iSite ...
07/10/2026

4 seats left on the Murder & Woe van tour for the Southern Heritage Festival. 10th Oct 5.30pm

Get picked up at the iSite then drive through the Northern Cemetery, back through town then up through the Devil's Half Acre.

Hear the stories of triple murder, first man hanged in South Island, murder by dynamite and more.
$50 +bf

Book at www.darkestdunedin.co.nz

We're stuck on what our next topic for a post should be so this is your invitation to ask anything about Dunedin's histo...
02/10/2026

We're stuck on what our next topic for a post should be so this is your invitation to ask anything about Dunedin's history and we'll see if something inspires a bottom up, long form post!

Photo is the Anglican Cathedral and the municipal building against the dusk sky

I am yet again reminding you to book a Murder & Woe walking tour or van tour for the Southern Heritage Festival this 10t...
02/10/2026

I am yet again reminding you to book a Murder & Woe walking tour or van tour for the Southern Heritage Festival this 10th October.

11am walking tour with Gregor - heaps of space left so if you don't have the funds but really want to do the tour, email [email protected] and I'll get you in free.

5.30 van tour with Gregor, walking tour with myself.

Book at www.darkestdunedin.co.nz

Our Murder & Woe tours for the Southern Heritage Trust are selling well - 10th October There are three seats left on the...
28/09/2026

Our Murder & Woe tours for the Southern Heritage Trust are selling well - 10th October

There are three seats left on the van tour with Gregor.

7 spaces left on my evening walking tour (you can fit so many people on the walking tours, I'm very loud, I could wake the dead I've been told)

The 11am tour with Gregor is getting lonely and is hoping for more bookings.

Book at www.darkestdunedin.co.nz

If you've read this far, we want to do another post explaining something in Dunedin's history but just aren't sure what, what do you want to know about?

Have you ever passed through a cemetery and wanted to glimpse into the stories behind the headstones? Local historian and experienced tour guide, Gregor Campbell has done just that and now his impressive catalogue of tales are available through guided tours

We took a very happy group of kids out to see some penglins (also referred to as pengwings) at The Otago Peninsula Eco R...
25/09/2026

We took a very happy group of kids out to see some penglins (also referred to as pengwings) at The Otago Peninsula Eco Restoration Alliance - The OPERA this evening and we saw the most beautiful characters waddling on the beach and a few very stately sea lions relaxing not far from us. We also stopped at Wellers Rock and listened to the shanty for good measure. (I also played for them music from my youth - shout out Peter Andre's Mysterious Girl)

If you want to head out for a tour, let us do the work. Drive there and back and book your tickets. You don't have to listen to 90's throw backs. But you can.

Get in touch! [email protected]

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